Dublin to Nepal, Germany, On Tour

Day 15: Sinzig to Bingen

We had read about this part of the EuroVelo 15, the route that follows the length of the Rhine. Apparently the stretch from Bonn to Bingen was one of the most scenic of the whole route. It really was impressive. The river wound through a hilly countryside, and at almost each wide meander a castle, ruined or restored sat atop the highest peak.  
  
It was, once again, pleasant and easy riding and we covered a lot of ground without even realising it sometimes. 

At points the cycle route would veer away from the river. These brief changes in scenery were nice, a good way to break up the Rhine route, lest we become bored with the constant beautiful views the riverside path afforded.

  
As they day wore on we found ourselves passing though more and more small towns and villages, all seemingly stuck in time two hundred or so years ago – probably restored to seem as such, but still we appreciated the variety.

  
As it got later we started keeping an eye out for places to set up for the night. There seemed to not be many potential spots to camp, all the land was either cultivated, someone’s house or a steep hill. As we pushed on into the evening though, we spotted small islands and peninsulas near the shore, silt deposits from the river that had built up. We finally found one that we were able to roll our bikes out too and set up for the night.

 

   
It would have been a great day of riding, an almost flawless day. Unfortunately, we hadn’t properly filtered the water we cooked with that night. At least, that’s what we think happened. Shortly after dark, laying under the tarp we both started to stomach cramps and were violently sick. It continued all night. It was awful, I’d say we got about five hours of sleep between us. Oh well, chalk it up to experience or something.

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Belgium, Dublin to Nepal, Finnian's Galleries, On Tour

Belgium

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Dublin to Nepal, Germany, On Tour

Day 14: Cologne to Sinzig

In the morning we packed up and said goodbye to Rolf, our fantastic host. Rolf was a big fan of Turkey and had given us some great tips for when we got there on places to go and things to do. As we were leaving his neighbourhood we were shouted at by a short, rotund bearded man in full cycling lycra.This man spoke with a real thick New York accent and had been riding around Europe since May on his Brompton. His name was Roma. 
 

leaving Cologne

 
  
After some last minute pick ups in the city we rode down to the Rhine and turned onto the EuroVelo 15 route that followed the river. This would be our course for the next five days all the way into Strasbourg. It was flat, we had a tailwind, it was sunny and the route was simple to follow, you can’t really get better conditions.

 

coming in to Bonn

 
When we got into Bonn, a city nearby Cologne we got lunch at a supermarket and then spent a bit of time looking for a bike shop. We found it after much searching but it was later than we wanted by the time we were back on the road.

 

going through a fair coming out of Bonn

 
  
  
However since the conditions were so good we decided to keep riding, and cycled on a bit later than we normally would. It wasn’t until nine o’clock that we finally stopped to make camp, in a great spot right on the shores of the Rhine. 

 

   

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Dublin to Nepal, Germany

Cologne: big cathedral…and a big camping store

Cologne is famous for its huge Gothic cathedral which we dutifully visited and were impressed by a great deal. However we didn’t spend nearly as much time at the cathedral as we did in the other great attraction of the city: (for us, at least) the Globetrotter outdoor store.
Four stories of high quality equipment for use in outdoor activities, a climbing wall and an indoor lake for testing out kayaks and canoes, we understandable spent a few hours in such an Aladdin’s cave.
As if a bivvy and a tent wasn’t enough, we had come to the Globetrotter with the hopes of buying a tarp. We felt it was the one piece of equipment missing that could really keep us comfortable at camp no matter the weather. We had considered picking one up before but the deluge we had spent the night in a few days prior convinced us.
So we bought the tarp. And then a few other items. And after a couple of hours left the store to visit the Cathedral. It is an impressive site and climbing to the top you get a great sense for the scale of the whole thing.

  
  
A bit more wandering and then we returned to Rolf and spent another lovely evening hanging out with him and his friends at the wall.

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Dublin to Nepal, Germany, On Tour

Day 13: Höfen to Cologne

Well rested and well fed we said goodbye and thanks to Hedi and Siegfried and rode off to our next city stop: Cologne. With a rest day tomorrow and a shower at our host in Cologne we didn’t mind the downpour that started soon after we left. We had organised someone to stay with in Cologne a bit more in advance than we did for Ghent, so we knew we had somewhere to stay coming in.
Climbing a lot the previous days now paid off as we spent most of the morning descending through the clouds. The rain continued. We were originally going to follow the roads into Cologne but soon found a map and sign at a node in the German cycle network. 

  
If we thought the Belgian network had been good, the German network was fantastic. Every sign had an arrow to the corresponding nod, but also a place name of the nearest settlement you could reach on the network in that direction. We mapped out a route to Cologne and set off.
The track varied from time to time. It would be smooth, sealed Tarmac one moment and then mud, dirt or gravel the next. Not a huge issue if not for the rain which meant that on any of these tracks our bikes would churn up the loose material and our panniers and bikes (mine more than Finns, I don’t have mudguards) would get filthy.
Again, not a huge issue normally, especially if you’re camping but we were staying with a Couchsurfing host that night and didn’t really want to pull dirty baggage into their home…

  
 

pumpkins outside Cologne

 
It wasn’t a big deal as it turned out. We got into to Cologne and got in contact with our host Rolf. Rolf was a super relaxed guy and had been cycling touring before, so he understood when we turned up covered in mud. Rolf had to run off to training we we had a shower and got talking to his lovely flat mate Janna who, we were supposed to bfind out, had been over to Ireland four times! 

  
We went out for some food and when we got back Rolf took us out his favourite hangout, a place he called “The Wall”. I don’t know if I should spoil the mystery, but if you get to Cologne ask someone to bring you to The Wall one evening, you won’t be disappointed (not guaranteed actually, it’s just a low wall that runs along one of the streets in the student neighbourhood where everybody from that neighbourhood comes to hang out).

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Belgium, Dublin to Nepal, Germany, On Tour

Day 12 Eupen to Höfen

In the aftermath of the storm that had passed over the night before we spent the morning drying out anything that had gotten wet. I had left my sleeping bag and shoes out in the rain and Finn had left his Bivvy zip slightly open so we both ended up laying out most of out sleeping gear to dry in the sun.   
We waited until maybe 10 and then started to pack up as most of our stuff had dried off and the sun disappeared behind some clouds. We set off to Monchau where we would be staying in nearby Höfen with Siegfried. We rode along access roads in a slight drizzle most of the morning through the Eifel national park. 

  
  
As we crossed the German border we stopped to take a photo. A friendly German lady who was just out walking her dog passed the two of us, drenched from the morning on the rain and asked if we wanted a warm shower or anything! First impressions of Germany are pretty good.

  
We started a long descent into the river valley that held the town of Monschau. We hadn’t heard of it before and weren’t really sure what to expect but it was beautiful. Apparently a famous tourist destination among Germans and Belgians alike, it’s a picturesque old world town set in a lush river valley. We wandered for a bit, got some food the rode out to the neighbouring Höfen where Siegfried was located.

  
  
  
A brief climb out of the river valley later and we were at Höfen and soon at Siegfrieds place. Heidi, Siegfriedis wife welcomed us and the two of them were so generous, we were very grateful for the warm hospitality. We were able to have a shower and get change into dry clothes before they rusted up a bbq from leftovers of one they had had the day before. And it was delicious.

 

there was quite a steep hill just before Siegfrieds place

 
After dinner they invited us in their evening walk around the area. When we got back to the house they sat us down and informed us that they were leaders of a beer tasting club back in their home town and broke out some Belgian brews for us all to try. It was a fantastic evening with the two of them and we felt so lucky to have run into Siegfried that day by the side of the road.

Tomorrow we would ride into Cologne where we would have another off day, but the great evening provided by Siegfried and Heidi felt like we had already had one.
On a somewhat related note, we’ve finally sorted something out so that Finn should be able to get his photos up here when he wants, wifi permitting of course. We’re leaving Strasbourg tomorrow morning ( writing this at 11pm local time) with a goal of arriving in Munich by the weekend. Hopefully once there we can get Finns pics out, he’s got much better photos on his camera than I do on the iPad.

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Belgium, Dublin to Nepal, On Tour

Day 11: Aubel to Eupen

Today was a very relaxed, if uneventful day of riding followed by a comparatively busy night. We contined from Aubel along the route we had planned out to Houfen via the cycle network, which was so well signposted it didn’t take much effort to follow. We were climbing a lot more today than we had been on days past though, as we were right in the edge of the Ardene. 

In the morning we did a big climb out of the valley we stayed near last night and down the otherside where we passed what we assumed to be the Chataux we had heard about the day before. The Chataux that was looked so poorly on simpler cycle tourers like us, looking to spend a quick night in a field.

  

The route took us over hills and down and up again on gravel roads.

  
It was sort of a half day today, we finished at 5 (but only go going a bit before noon). Just before we finished, we had planned to camp in the park beside a lake we had seen on the map again we had a big climb. We arrived at the top and found the dam, and across it a carpark where you were aloud keep camper vans for a while. Nearby the carpark was a patch of grass shielded from the carpark by a hedge.

  
 

Following a relaxed evening of reading/writing/foam rolling we got into the Bivvys and drifted off to sleep.
Only to be rudely awoken at 11 by some German kids who had driven up to the carpark, we assumed from some nearby town, to spin doughnuts and blast trashy rock/dub step out of their car stereo. We were joking about the whole situation, us behind the hedge in our sleeping bags and them having the time of their lives in this carpark.
When eventually they noticed us through the foliage a few came to investigate. Unfortunately before we could get talking to them, Finn scared them off with a friendly hello.

They finally left the carpark when it started to rain. At first a drizzle, but soon it was torrential, a thunderstorm had blown in. We were kept up by the heavy rain pounding the Bivvys, which lie directly on top of your legs. After the rain subsided a few hours later though, we drifted off to sleep.

camp, the next morning

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Belgium, Dublin to Nepal, On Tour

Day 10: Zoutleeuw to Aubel

Ok I completely forget to include a rather signficicant event in one of the previous posts that influenced where we decide to cycle to after leaving Tine’s.

On the way out of Ghent going to Keerburgen, so on Day 8 of cycling we stopped to eat the bread, meat and cheese we had bought earlier in a supermarket. It was raining so we were eating in a bus shelter with out bikes propped on either side. While we were happily eating our lunch out of the rain, a van pulled up with the signs of the local government on the side across the road for us.

We just sat there and waited for the driver to approach us and we’re kind of assuming it would be an official coming to tell us to move on, that we couldn’t stop and eat here. This guy gets out, tall guy, long-ish hair tied back and walks over to us. Oh here we go…

The guy was actually super friendly, his name was Siegfried and he did work for the local government as a groundskeeper. He asked if we needed directions or help, we said we were ok and he said “alright no problem”. He offered us to stay with him and his family that night, they lived nearby but that night we were staying with Tine.

Siegfried got back in his van and just before he pulled off asked us where we were going before he pulled off.

By now we had gotten into the habit of telling people our goal was “Istanbul, first” and then maybe elaborate on the whole year long trip if they seemed interested, it was easier this way.

So, we told Siegfried “Istanbul” and that got his attention, he got out of the van came back over to us and told us how he’d been there over 10 times! He asked us what our route out of Belgium was and we told him we were leaving through the Eifel National park which bordered Germany in the South East.

“I have a holiday home there and will be down this weekend with my wife while the kids are at camp! Call me up when you get near and you can stay with us a night.”

And with that Siegfried gave us his phone number and address and told us to call him when we got near.

So the result of all this is that we had planned the rest of route through Belgium such that we would arrive at Houfen where Siegfreid and his wife had their holiday home on Sunday, the day he guaranteed he would be there. We couldn’t turn down such hospitality.

So we found ourselves, not with time to kill per say, but with a comfortable distance to ride in a generous amount of time. So back, to Day 10. As the crow flies the journey from Zoutleeuw to Aubel is not really that long, but since we had time on our hands we decided to go through Hasselt and then dip into the Netherlands for a bit and go via Maastricht and then down into Aubel, on the outskirts of the Eifel National Park.

Once again, we were on the fantastic Belgian cycle route which works as a network of nodes you plan a path between.

 

 

lovely cycle paths in Belgium


We got lunch (Lidl) in Hasselt and gave Siegfried a call letting him know we’d arrive on Sunday (it was now Friday). We then pushed on to Maastricht.

 

big locks outside Hasselt. four of these were in a row.

   
We crossed into the Netherlands without noticing. We were probably only there for about 90 minutes all told, but I reckon it counts. We flew the Maastricht, didn’t really feel like stopping again at the time.

 

the old square at Maastricht

 
As we approached Aubel we started to experience something long forgotten since entering Beglium, inclines! We hadn’t climbed a hill since getting off the ferry. 

 

“rolling” hills, at least comparitavely

 
We spent a bit of time looking for somewhere to camp, but couldn’t find anywhere discrete, and asking around if we could sleep in someone’s field led nowhere as the land was all own by “the chateaux”, so eventually, reluctantly, we ended the day in our first campsite.

  

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Belgium, Dublin to Nepal, On Tour

Day 9: Keerburgen to Zoutleeuw

After a thoroughly enjoyable evening spent with Tine and the family we slept in spare beds the provided us and we woke up well rested. We had breakfast with Frank and Victor, Frank’s son. At breakfast Frank showed us Lotus Biscoff Spread, a cinnamon flavoured spread that tastes like this little biscuits you sometimes get served with coffee. It was delicious and of course we bought a jar at the next supermarket we stopped at.

After eating we spent the morning doing some upkeep and maintenance on the bikes, just simple stuff that needed tuning after the first few days of the tour.

We left feeling well rested and ready to ride across the rest of Belgium over the next few days. Thanks so much for the hospitality guys!

 

all ready to go outside Tine and Franks place

 
We rode from Keerburgen along the cycle track that followed a canal (again! Belgium was proving to be easy enough to navigate) into the nearby city of Leuven. More flat cycling with a tailwind in the sun, it doesn’t really get easier than this.

 

cyclist along the route to Leuven

 
We didn’t spend too long in Leuven as it was late enough when we left Tine’s. We picked up some supplies in Lidl for lunch and the next few days and went and sat in the square. 

 

food and snacks for the next few days – Lidl makes the best Snickers knock off

 
 

lunch in Leuven

 
Our end goal for today was Zoutleeuw, what looked on the map like a lake not to far from Leuven. A couple of hours of flat, prefect Beglian roads later and one wrong turn (not too long, maybe only an extra 20 min) we got into Zoutleeuw town, another lovely old settlement. In the centre of town was a public water fountain so we could fill up without having to potential anger anybody.

 

 

Zoutleeuw town


A short ride out of the town we came across the lake. As it turned out it wasn’t a lake, but a wetland and would probably have been really nice, a relaxing place to spend the evening if not for the abundance of mosquitoes. We found somewhere to camp and threw on bug repellant. A pretty full day overall.
 

wetlands

 

  

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