The last day of cycling in Hokkaido. It came a lot sooner than I expected. This was one of the most enjoyable days. The route started off hugging the bay in to Mori. At first I was shrouded in fog, but this cleared up soon enough.

This road past by many old fishing villages where I drew much attention from the locals. They either smiled and waved at me, or pointedly ignored me.

The journey was very smooth and I probably would have made it to Hakodate very early if not for a puncture I got just outside Mori. I spent an age pumping the tyre up again with my hand pump. I soon passed a petrol station where I cold use their air to further inflate my tyre.

With this hurdle cleared the rest of the journey to Hakodate was a breeze. It was a great cycle through a national park past lake Onuma. Before I knew it I found myself only 15km out of Hakodate

Here I got another puncture. One my tyre has been completely worn out on one side. I replaced it quickly but couldn’t find a bike store to purchase a new tyre. I just hoped I could get to Hakodate and find accommodation before it blew again.

I got lucky and found myself in Hakodate about 40 minutes later. It was an interesting trip through Hokkaido. Not done under ideal conditions, but I certainly enjoyed most of it. Even the rain. Sometimes.

I woke up this morning after the stormy night and the tent had held up superbly. I was worried about having to leave the bike out in so much rain, it can’t had been good for it but I couldn’t very well bring into the tent with me.

When I got out if the tent I saw dozens of fishing boats, all line up a little ways off the coast of Tomakomai. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many ships fishing in the same spot, it was bizarre.

After the hurried day of cycling I did yesterday, I resolved to take today a little slower, and not just get tunnel visioned into covering the k’s as fast as possible. I was aiming for somewhere near Oshamanbe. the road to Oshamanbe was pretty straight and easy to follow so i would cycle in that direction until I had to stop. I was currently a day ahead of schedule too, so I could afford the time. There was still a low hanging cloud and that misty sort of rain, so I had to wrap up and accept that everything I was wearing would remain damp.

The rain got heavier so I stopped cycling for a bit and ducked into a rest stop on the highway for a coffee. This was a nice little break and also alerted me to the fact that there was an onsen near by. I hadn’t bathed properly since Wakkanai, and I had yet to experience a Japanese hot spring so I resolved to visit it. It turns out that the road out of Tomakomai has a whole bunch of onsen. I just went to the nearest one.

It was an fantastic time, bathing in a hot spring in the rain. It likewise felt great to be clean for the first time in three days. I continued on towards Muroran in the rain, but much more refreshed. Really enjoyable cycle to Muroran, not least because of the tail wind I had on the way there.

I stopped for lunch just outside Date where I saw a sign for a Nepalese restaurant. I figured if someone was to set up a Nepalese restaurant out here in isolation it must be the real deal. And it was too. The food was great and the chef, Ram, was an incredibly friendly and nice guy.

Fuelled with a decent lunch I turned inland a bit towards Oshamanbe and began climbing over the hills that led to it. The road had a lot of ascents that I think were supposed to afford wonderful views that I unfortunately missed out on.

That was a tough climb, I think there is supposed to be a great view up here.

Nevermind…

At around six a settled into a spot to camp a bit off the road. With the rain continuing to fall and having exhausted myself climbing the hills and cycling through the tunnels that made up the route to Oshamanbe I stopped about 15km short, but it wasn’t too much of an issue. I had two days to get to Hakodate and the distance that was left I could do in one.

My camp sight for the night.

Today the rain started. It was innocuous enough when I got up and out of the tent. I should have sensed something was up when I saw that most of the families we hurriedly packing up and leaving, but I was hopeful that it was a short shower that would pass.

This wasn’t the case. By about 10 I was soaked. It was a relentless downpour that soon left the roads like streams. My bags were all waterproof, and jacket and wet pants kept me relatively dry but my shoes became drenched.

When it rains on tour you become a lot more tunnel visioned. I didn’t stop all that much, or even notice that much while I was cycling. Looking back all I can remember is the rain. And this one bear statue.

Fortunately the rain didn’t last all day. Just before lunch it cleared up, which coincided quite nicely with the road joining back along the sea. Journeying to Rumoi, my half way point, was a lot easier after that.

Just before Rumoi I passed through my first tunnel of the trip. It had a wide path for pedestrians and cyclists and was sloping downhill. Pretty easy going.

I was pretty eager to keep going when I arrived at Rumoi so I only grabbed a quick lunch. After Rumoi my route turned inland towards Chippubetsu where I hoped to cut across to Takikawa, my end point.

The road to Chippubetsu was lovely, at first ringed by mountains with small fields on either side. The road followed an old train track most of the time.

After a while I left the proximity of the mountains and entered the plains of central Hokkaido where the land was flat for miles and the road straight and quiet. By now the sun was out, the day had improved so much since the morning.

I couldn’t find the road at Chippubetsu I wanted to use to cross to Takikawa quickly, so I had to cycle to Fukagawa and then turn towards Takikawa. This added about 90 minutes to the journey and meant passing through much more urban areas, wider roads and big shopping complexes with wide parking lots. It wasn’t quite as pleasant as the rural plains earlier.

Getting into Takikawa I saw a sign for a campsite only 5km away. It turned out to be 5km uphill, a tough request at the end of a long day but when I arrived it was worth it. Set in a quiet valley with a few other families car camping, it wax a great place to stay. That night was dry, and I think there must have been some sort of festival or celebration on as fireworks were set off in and around the campsite.

The morning was overcast when I got up at 5, but didn’t seem like it would rain. With a little bit of apprehension, but also some relief to be getting going finally, I packed up my tent and bags and fully loaded my bike.

My goal for today was Shosanbetsu, a small town about 100km from Wakkanai. As I was leaving the friendly old man who gave me tea the day before came over, shook my hand and said something I didn’t understand. I assume it was “good luck” or “safe trip”, and it felt good to be officially seen off by someone. Even a stranger I didn’t really know.

Cycling through Wakkanai in the early morning was a strange experience. It still didn’t yet feel like I was on tour, merely commuting to some destination. I think that changed when I left Wakkanai and saw the coast I would be following for the next two days.

The journey to my halfway point of Teshio was easy and pleasant. The road was flat, the wind was calm and after a while the sun came out. I passed a few tourers on the road around mid morning and stopped for a chat with some of them beside these windmills a bit outside Teshio. It was a group of three guys. The farthest had ridden from Nagoya, and I don’t think they believed my when I told them I planned to ride to Fukuoka.

I had planned to eat some ramen or something in Teshio, but Teshio was a lot quieter than I expected. All I could find was a 7/11 so I grabbed one of those rice triangles for lunch. I don’t know what they are called, but I do know they are delicious and so cheap.

The ride from Teshio to Shosanbetsu was a bit tougher, instead of following the coast the road moved inland slightly and followed the rolling dunes. The sun continued to shine and the day was over a lot sooner than I anticipated when I arrived at my destination around 2.30.

There was a really nice free campsite in Shosanbetsu which was situate on a promontory that overlooked the coast. I could see the road I had just ridden, a satisfying view.

There were a few car camper families in the campsite with me, but no cyclists and none of the motorcyclists that populated Wakkanai campsite.

My campsite for the night. The next day would be a longer journey, so I welcomed the ease with which I completed this day.